March 30, 2010 § 2 Comments
Alright alright alright. I’m sorry. I told you a long time ago I have a hard time following through on things like this. I’ve been SO busy… working 6-7 days a week, 10-12 hours a day, and I caught a nasty bout of the plague on the plane home from NZ…. AND I’m acting in a play this weekend and have been playing catch up on rehearsal….
So… that’s the end of my excuses for not writing. But, guess what? I’m back 🙂
Spring is right around the corner! Its raining now, but its supposed to be 80 this weekend! Lots of rain and lots of bright sunshine make happy crops, and that makes for a happy locavore. I was getting a little whiny there for a bit about the lack of variety in my diet, but the truth is… I still love winter food. Maybe it’s because I had a great break in New Zealand and was able to stuff myself with juicy plums and tomatoes, but I am still loving kale and mushrooms. In fact, I made them for dinner tonight with another one of Bev’s amazing pork chops. It was (again) so incredibly delicious. A little salt and pepper and a flash in the pan, and ta dah! I’m a brilliant chef! 😉 It was an obscene amount of meat for one person though, so I ate half and am saving the rest for a sandwich tomorrow (with plum chutney, mmm).
In all honesty, it’s been a tough couple of weeks since I’ve been back. Trying to get back into the groove of cooking, and restocking the fridge, and remembering to make my own food. But Star Hollow is back on an every Saturday schedule, and I’m getting more local food in Sweetgreen every week (now that things are starting to grow) so lunches are easier, and very delicious 🙂
Sorry for the long hiatus. I promise I’ll be better. I’ve missed talking to you people! 🙂 I’m ready to get back in here and give you all the advice I can on where to find food, who to buy it from, and why buying local, sustainable food is the best thing you can do for your body, your community, and your tastebuds.
So if you’ve got questions- lay ’em on me. Which CSAs still have availability? When are the farmers markets opening for the season? What can you expect to be eating in April and May? It’s all to come. Thanks for sticking with me!
February 19, 2010 § 1 Comment
Not to be a total bragasaurus, but I made the BEST dinner on Monday night. At the Dupont Market on Sunday I bought one single, thick pork chop from my darling Bev for $3.50. For the price his high end cuts go for, this may be the best deal at the market. I decided to make it Monday night because I just really needed a good meal. I’ve been making a lot of very blah meals the past week or so, and needed that reassurance that I can, in fact, cook. Well, this was just what the doctor ordered. I’m now getting an inflated ego over this meal, but if I’m going to be honest… the pig really did all the work here. This meal would have been just alright with a chop from any other animal- but with one from Bev’s pig… it was practically a religious experience.
Oh how I WISH I had taken a picture of the pork chop raw. It had this gorgeous 3/4 inch layer of pure white fat along one side, and a frenched bone. It was truly artistic. When seared in the hot pan, the fat got crispy on the outside and meltingly tender in the center. Oooh… it gives me delicious chills even thinking about it now.
This is also a perfectly seasonal meal, and nearly everything in it is locally and sustainably produced. The kale is from Sunnyside Farm at Dupont, and the potatoes are from my Star Hollow CSA. The exceptions are the usuals- Maille mustard (it is the best, there is no substitute), chardonnay (from CA), kosher salt. I did get a little fancy and use local crushed red pepper- last month I got a dried cayenne pepper from my CSA and crushed it myself. I feel like I get double points for that one 🙂
1 EcoFriendly Foods Pork Chop
2 tbsp Maille Mustard (or other good Dijon), separated
1 tbsp pork fat (bacon grease, preferably from EcoFriendly bacon- I have seriously loyalties)
Handful of fingerling potatoes (like 6-8 maybe? Depends on how hungry you are)
1 cup kale, chopped
1 shallot, finely chopped
1/4 cup milk or cream
1/4 cup white wine (I used Chardonnay, dry Riesling would work well too)
red pepper flakes
Preheat oven to 400.
Melt bacon fat in a hot cast iron/heavy bottom, oven proof skillet. Slice potatoes in half and put them cut side down into the skillet. Leave them alone while you prep the pork. Pat pork chop dry, then rub down all over with 1 tbsp mustard, and salt liberally (for real, don’t get stingy here). Check potatoes, the underside should be crispy and browned. Flip the potatoes, push the to the outside of the pan and lay the the chop in the center. Cook it until well browned on each side (about 2-3 minutes on high heat),add the kale the the pan, then throw the skillet in the oven for about 4-5 minutes. Mince shallots while you wait. Pull the skillet out and transfer the chop, the kale and potatoes to plate.
Add shallots to pan (and more fat if needed). Deglaze the pan by pouring in wine and letting it bubble away. Once reduced, add rest of mustard and milk or cream. Stir together, let reduce a little more, then pour over your pork chop.
This meal is only local, seasonal, delicious, fast, and easy… it also only uses 1 pan (I hate doing dishes). Plus if you use cast iron you just have to pour in a little water while its hot and wipe out with a paper towel. It doesn’t get easier than this. (BTW, if you wash your cast iron skillet with water and soap, please stop before you break my heart.)
January 28, 2010 § Leave a comment
Thus continues my day of comfort eating.
I was home from work yesterday, and my activities consisted of:
1. Crocheting (really badly. I’ve reached the end of the ball of yarn and have no idea what to do next.)
2. Cleaning out my room (I have a near full wardrobe of clothes to take to Martha’s Outfitters. Feeling extreme guilt for even owning that much stuff at one time. Feels so good to purge my life, though. Freedom from excess awaits.)
3. Trying to keep from throwing away things in the fridge (New realization: Food is necessity. Save food, throw away everything else.)
So in my attempt at #3, I ate leftovers, froze chicken stock, and roasted some slowly deteriorating beets. This is my first time preparing beets, and I took a little instructional help from my new friend Alice Waters (well, her cookbook anyway). The reason I’ve never made beets is simple- I hated the taste of them until about 2 months ago. And then, after years of pleading with my taste buds to understand them the way my eyes did- as gorgeous little jewels that LOOKED so delicious!- they finally listened. I tried a bite of a beet and goat cheese salad, something I’d tried many times before, and suddenly… I liked it! In my excitement I ordered some from my CSA, and then promptly forgot about them. Until today. So now I have these roasted beets in the fridge, but all I want to eat is something warm and filling. The craving for a cold beet salad hasn’t quite hit me yet.
Lucky for my cravings, I found some leftover polenta from Friday’s roast chicken feast, and suddenly dinner was born.
Another thing I did yesterday was spend an inordinate amount of time poking around on food blogs. I found a new favorite, Tea & Cookies, by a woman on the west coast. I came upon an entry she had written called “Polenta and Mushrooms and Love Past”, and I started to salivate just looking at the pictures. So when I found that leftover polenta in the fridge, and realized I had a portobello mushroom form my CSA, and that the Tallegio looked a lot like my Firefly Merry Goat Round… it was game on.
Creamy Polenta with Mushrooms, Shallots, and Red Wine Cream Sauce
This is an extremely vague recipe. Basically I just threw everything together in a pan. It’s very simple and very delicious.
Leftover creamy polenta (or make some from the recipe given here)
A soft melty cheese like Merry Goat Round, or Tallegio, or Camembert
1 portobello mushroom (or a few criminis)
Whole milk, Half and Half or Cream
Chopped herbs (thyme, rosemary, herbes de provence- whatever sounds good really)
Warm up polenta and put in a bowl. Layer a few slices of cheese on top (and if you are lazy and want it melty right away, throw it in the microwave for 20 seconds like I did.)
Slice shallots and saute with a little oil or butter for 2 minutes. Add the sliced mushrooms, saute for 30 seconds, then add a good glug of red wine. Mix with the mushroom and shallot and allow to reduce. Then add a good glug of milk/cream and mix all together until reduced and creamy. Toss in some salt and herbs, and pour on top of the polenta and cheese.
Eat on the couch with a spoon and be comforted.
*Traceability: Polenta from Wade’s Mill; mushrooms, shallot, herbs from Star Hollow CSA; Homestead Creamery milk, bought at Whole Foods; cheese from Firefly Farm; red wine is Syrah from Cline Cellars, a sustainable vineyard and winery in California.
January 27, 2010 § Leave a comment
I feel like crap. My throat hurts and I’ve lost my voice and I went to a play audition and don’t think I did very well because I don’t have a voice and I’m sick and my apartment is cold and… sniff… I need a hug… 😦
In my life, there is only one remedy for this sad situation. Macaroni and Cheese.
Granted, mine is a local-food-adapted, more grown up version than the one out of the blue box, but it’s nearly as easy and just as comforting. I had no delusions that this would make me well (it’s no chicken soup of nutrients), but it certainly made me feel better about life for a while. And sometimes, that’s really all you can ask for.
Pure Comfort Macaroni and Cheese (makes 2 servings)
1 tbsp butter (Trickling Springs Creamery)
1 tbsp AP flour (Wade’s Mill)
1 cup whole milk (Homestead Creamery)
1/8 tsp fresh nutmeg (use less if only have ground nutmeg)
1/3 cup favorite/available cheeses (fresh mozzarella from NYC trip, FireFly’s Merry Goat Round)
2 servings pasta, short or long depending on preference (I used whole wheat fettucine from Hudson Valley Farms, from NYC trip)
1/4 cup Pancetta, crispy- optional (Homecured, given to me as a gift)
Small handful of fresh baby spinach- optional (Tuscarora- through Star Hollow CSA)
Put on salted water to boil for pasta. In a heavy bottomed skillet on medium heat, melt the butter then whisk in the flour to make a roux. Turn the heat up and add the milk, whisking constantly to avoid lumps. Continue to stir, and let the sauce bubble and thicken.
When it sticks to the back of wooden spoon, add the nutmeg and cheeses. Stir with wooden spoon until all is incorporated. Taste test and add salt and pepper as needed.
When pasta is done boiling, pull it from the water with tongs and drop into pan with sauce. Fold pasta into sauce to coat. If using, add spinach at this time and fold in to wilt. Add (precooked) pancetta or bacon. If sauce is too thick, add a little pasta water and fold in.
Put into bowls immediately and sprinkle with a little more cheese and pepper. Eat and be comforted.
*This dish sadly does not keep very well, so if not sharing you should probably eat it all in one sitting. I’m just saying… hate to let food go to waste…
January 26, 2010 § 2 Comments
On Sunday night, January 24th- Alice Waters and Joan Nathan created an evening of extravagant Sunday Suppers that will not be soon forgotten. Generous Washingtonians opened their homes to famous chefs from around the country (and France!) and groups of people dedicated to solving hunger and promoting local food systems.
As the seat sales ($500 each) for the “Sunday Suppers” benefitted DC Central Kitchen and Martha’s Table, I was lucky enough to attend a dinner to speak on behalf of the Kitchen. Perhaps because they know I am doing this year of local eating, or perhaps just because I’m lucky, I was given a seat at the home of Kathryn and Michael Hanley where Jeff Buben and RJ Cooper (of the much celebrated Vidalia, here in DC) were cooking with almost exclusively local, and all sustainable, food.
Fresh, local food has long been a signature of Vidalia- which I had regrettably forgotten until last night. It is definitely going my Where to Eat list.
The dinner was out-of-control good. 9 courses of pure deliciousness. The company was engaging, the hosts gracious, and the chefs inspiring. It was a perfectly refined evening. And then the after-party at Oyamel started and all my politesse went right down the hatch with the tequila. But oh, it was such a good time. I got to talk with everyone from brilliant chefs to progressive farmers.
My darling Bev Eggleston of EcoFriendly Foods introduced me to John Jamison, of Jamison Farm who raises some of the best lamb in the country. Demetri Recachinas, chef and food manager of Martha’s Table, and I had a long and wonderful conversation about our shared future, and how we must work more closely in the coming year to accomplish our lofty goals. Nick Stefanelli, executive chef at the fairly new and well-reviewed Bibiana Osteria, assured me- after rabid questioning- that I would be perfectly safe eating at his restaurant, as he only sources the highest quality local and sustainable ingredients… something I was only too happy to hear. I was also briefly mistaken for Post food writer Jane Black, and I regrettably had to inform the gentleman that sadly, no, I was not. But I was enormously flattered.
I was out until the wee hours, and Monday morning came far too early, but it was all completely worth it. As someone working in both hunger solutions and high-end food sourcing, it was the perfect combination of my worlds. I met Alice Waters (a long time hero of mine) and Joan Nathan, two of the most incredible women in food, and Josh Viertel, the President of Slow Food USA, and numerous other famous chefs, foodies, and hunger and poverty warriors.
It was an incredible night for all involved, and the pure generosity of the chefs, food purveyors, and hosts was inspiring. Sunday Suppers raised over $100,000 for DC Central Kitchen and Martha’s Table. Not too shabby for some simple Sunday Suppers at home.
January 23, 2010 § 3 Comments
No, not chicken fingers… or even chicken with fingerling potatoes… I’m talking about roast chicken with your fingers. This is perhaps the best of all possible ways to eat a roast chicken, or anything for that matter. In the pursuit of getting closer to your food, I advise two things: Know your farmer, and eat with your hands.
Truly I tell you, there is no way to get physically closer to the food you are eating than to get right in and tear it apart with your bare hands. It sounds rather beastly, but I find it terribly sensual. Scooping up polenta and garlic with a torn piece of succulent chicken with crispy skin, the juice running down your hand, licking your fingers to not miss any stray bits… sigh… that is pure happiness.
I will recommend, however, that you only do this when eating alone or with someone who loves and understands you. I prefer the former. When I sat down at the table, I had a knife and fork in hand. But suddenly I realized- I’m alone… I can do anything I want! I can eat this meal with my hands and fill my wine glass all the way to the top! It’s really quite liberating, I highly encourage you to try it 🙂
Roast Chicken with Blue Cheese Polenta, Caramelized Onions and Wilted Spinach
Preheat oven to 400.
Half of a fresh, local chicken (or whole, just double the herb butter- same cooking time)
3 tbsp fresh herbs (I used thyme, rosemary, and sage)
4-6 tbsp soft, room temp butter
Salt (preferably sea or kosher salt) and pepper
2 tbsp olive oil or bacon fat
2 red onions
6 cloves garlic
2 cups fresh spinach
Chop herbs and mix them together with the butter. Slather the chicken with the herb butter all over, tucking some under the skin if you can (gently slide your fingers underneath the skin at an opening, slowly pushing deeper and pulling the skin away from the meat. Push the butter up as far as you can without tearing the skin.) Massage the bird all over, adding more butter if needed. Don’t be shy with the butter, it’s necessary for a crispy skin. Liberally salt and pepper the bird all over, including the cavity.
Melt the oil or bacon fat in a cast iron skillet (or heavy oven proof pan) on high heat. Lay the bird skin side down in the pan and leave for 4-5 minutes or until very well browned. Avoid putting the breast side down as much as possible- the breast cooks faster than the rest of the bird, and it will dry out if you cook it too much now. Slice the onions into thick half moons and de-skin the garlic. Once the bird is browned to your liking, scatter the onions and garlic around the pan. Pop the skillet in the oven and set timer for 30 minutes. While it is cooking, get working on the polenta (see below).
After 30 minutes, pull the skillet out and place it back on the stove. Remove the chicken form the pan and place it on a cutting board to rest (if there is a lot of extra fat in the pan, you may pour off some now). Turn the stove on to medium heat and add the spinach to the onions and garlic. Let it cook until it is just wilted and bright green (do not overcook!).
Separate the leg and thigh from the breast by pushing your knife into the hip-joint. It should pull away very easily. Stake claim on your favorite piece now!
Put some polenta on your plate, top with spinach/onion/garlic, and place your chicken on top. Let cool a little, then dig in with your fingers. Drink with a full glass of your favorite wine.
A simple but completely indulgent pleasure. Enjoy!
For the polenta:
1 cup dry polenta/corn grits
2 cups milk
1/2 cup water
1 tsp salt
1/2 cup soft blue cheese, or any cheese you like (I used Firefly Farms Mountain Top Bleu- a blue goat cheese. It is out of the world good. And the 2 guys who own Firefly are completely wonderful. Which makes it even better.)
Bring the milk and water to a simmer, add the salt, and pour in the polenta. Stir slowly with a whisk or spoon until it starts to become incorporated. Turn the heat down and continue to stir for 10 minutes, or until there is no grit left when you taste it. You may add more milk or water if it becomes too thick or sticky. When it is done, add the cheese and stir with a wooden spoon until all is melted together. Serve immediately.
January 20, 2010 § 4 Comments
One of the things I used to love to make, before this year of local eating kicked in, was fried rice. Add shrimp or chicken and an egg and you’ve got Local shrimp fried…wheatberries. Well, it satiates the craving and really that’s the point!
This dish has become my favorite thing to eat after I’ve overindulged myself a bit too much (like, say, after a weekend in NYC), and have a fridge full of rapidly deteriorating veggies. I was in both of these situations last night,and was happy to have an excuse to make this delicious meal.
1 cup hard wheatberries (mine from Wade’s Mill in Raphine, VA- ordered online)
2 cups homemade chicken stock (must be high quality homemade, since this is where most of the flavor comes from)
1 cup water
2 cups chopped kale
5 button mushrooms, sliced
1 small sweet potato, cubed
2 small heads of broccoli (about 2- 2.5 cups), broken into small florets
6 small carrots, peeled and sliced
Half a small red onion
3 cloves garlic (1 grated, 2 whole)
1 small bunch of fresh thyme (or whatever herb you have around)
Salt and red pepper flakes
(The key is to get everything about the same size so it cooks quickly).
Boil the chicken stock and water with a few thyme sprigs and 2 cloves garlic. When boiling, pour in wheatberries. Cover pot and let cook for 30 minutes, or until berries are tender but still chewy. (*Do not salt the stock and water at this point, WAIT!)
After 30 minutes, uncover pot and let it continue to boil another 10-15 minutes while you cook your veggies. You want the water to boil out and the chicken stock to reduce to a rich brothy sauce.
On high heat, put some oil in a wok or wide deep skillet and toss in the onion and garlic (keep tossing with a wooden spoon so they don’t burn). Then, throw in each vegetable according to their hardness (and thus cooking time). Cook each for about 3 minutes. Mine went- carrots and sweet potato, broccoli, kale, mushrooms. (*You may want to add some water or some of the stock from the wheatberries to the pan if it seems to need liquid (especially with the kale), but remember the vegetables will release their water so only add a little at a time or it will get soupy. )
When the veggies are done, the stock should be reduced to about 1 cup of liquid or less (this is your preference if you want more or less). You may salt them at this point. Dump all the wheatberries and reduced stock into the veggie pan and toss all together. Sprinkle in some more fresh thyme and red pepper flakes, and salt to taste.
Voila! A very easy, comforting dinner, and healthy ready-to-eat lunches for the next couple of days. I usually make twice as much of the wheatberries and freeze half, this way the next time I want them I don’t have to wait 45 minutes for them to cook.
All vegetables came from my Star Hollow CSA, except mushrooms which came from the Local section at Whole Foods. Chicken stock was homemade from a stew hen (from CSA) and vegetable scraps. Wheatberries are from Wade’s Mill (ordered online), and grated cheese is Cherry Glen’s Crottin (bought in November at farmers market, and allowed to harden).